Ingredients

• 2 medium fennel bupounds (sometimes labeled "anise"; about 1 1/2 pounds total), stalks discarded and bulb halved lengthwise, then cut into 1/2-inch-wide wedges
• 12 fresh sardines (about 2 to 3 ounces each), cleaned, leaving head and tail intact
• 1/2 red onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (1/2 cup)
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 teaspoons finely chopped rind (zest and white pith) from preserved lemon
• 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper